John Bachar (1957~) is an American rock climber who took the art of climbing without a rope, or
free soloing, to unprecedented levels.
Bachar was born in 1957. He grew up in
Los Angeles, Californiaand started climbing at Stoney Point. He attended UCLAwhere his father was a math professor, but dropped out to climb full time. Obsessed with the sport, Bachar immersed himself in books on physical training and nutrition, and soon was able to outperform his fellow climbers.
John Long, whom Bachar met in the early 1970s, shared his interest in physical training and convinced Bachar to try free soloing, starting with the classic Joshua Tree route "Double Cross" (5.7). Bachar also put up notorious
boulderingproblems in Joshua Tree such as "Planet X" (V6) and "So High" (V5). The committing crux move of the latter problem is 25 feet off the ground [Robert Miramontes, "A Complete Bouldering Guide To Joshua Tree National Park", K. Daniels and Associates, 2003] .
Bachar made a name for himself in
Yosemitewith his unroped ascents of "New Dimensions" (5.11a) and "The Nabisco Wall", a three-pitch affair ("Waverly Wafer" (5.10c), "Butterballs" (5.11c), "Butterfingers" (5.11a)) [Mark Kroese, "Fifty Favorite Climbs: The Ultimate North American Tick List", The Mountaineers Books, 2001] . Bachar's superb physical fitness gave him an edge; his campsite at Camp 4was filled with exercise equipment, including the hanging ladders that became known as Bachar ladders. At his peak Bachar was able to perform a one arm pull up with 12.5 lbs of weight attached. [Michael Reardon, "Bachar: One Man, One Myth, One Legend", Jumprunner Productions, 2005]
Confident of his free soloing ability, Bachar posted a note in 1981 promising a "$10,000 reward for anyone who can follow me for one full day." No one took the challenge. That same year he put up "Bachar-Yerian" (5.11c) in
Tuolumne Meadowswith Dave Yerian. One of the boldest first ascents ever, the 500 foot face climb is protected by a mere 13 bolts, each one placed while tenuously hanging from a hook. Bachar was a vocal critic of climbing tactics such as bolting on rappelwhich came into vogue during the 1980s.
In 1986 Bachar and Peter Croft made an link up of
El Capitanand Half Dome, climbing a vertical mile in under 14 hours. [Alexander Huber and Heinz Zak, "Yosemite: Half a Century of Dynamic Rock Climbing", Menasha Ridge Press, 2003] In the 1990s Bachar free soloed "Enterprise" (5.12b) in the Owens River Gorgeand "The Gift" (5.12c) at Red Rocks for the "Masters of Stone" video series. He was featured in the documentary "Bachar: One Man, One Myth, One Legend" (2005) by Michael Reardon.
Bachar lives in
Mammoth Lakes, Californiaand is Director of Design of Acopa International LLC, a company which manufactures rock climbing shoes. The website for his shoe company is http://www.acopausa.com.
On August 13, 2006, Bachar was involved in a serious car accident while travelling home from the Outdoor Retailer Trade Show in
Salt Lake City. He suffered five fractured vertebrae.
Wikimedia Foundation. 2010.
Look at other dictionaries:
John Bachar — (* 1957; † 5. Juli 2009 bei Mammoth Lakes) war ein amerikanischer Kletterer. Er war bekannt für seine spektakulären Free Solo Begehungen. Er gilt als einer der Väter des modernen Sportkletterns und war Erstbegeher zahlreicher schwerer… … Deutsch Wikipedia
John Bachar — (23 марта 1957 5 июля 2009 года). Вырос в Лос Анджелесе, познакомился с лазанием в районе Stoney Point. Сделал имя в Йосемитах пройдя без веревки New Dimensions (5.11a) and The Nabisco Wall, a three pitch affair (Waverly Wafer (5.10c),… … Энциклопедия туриста
Bachar — ist der Name folgender Personen: Carmit Bachar (* 1974), US amerikanische Sängerin, Tänzerin und Schauspielerin Dian Bachar (* 1970), US amerikanischer Schauspieler John Bachar (1957–2009), US amerikanischer Kletterer Dies … Deutsch Wikipedia
Bachar ladder — The Bachar ladder is a piece of training equipment used by the rock climbing community to improve campusing strength and overall upper body strength. It was invented by John Bachar to improve his physical fitness. Most incarnations of the Bachar… … Wikipedia
John Long (climber) — For other persons of this name, see John Long.John Long (born 1953) is an American rock climber and author. A one time divinity student at Claremont School of Theology and former weightlifter, Long was a founding member of an elite group of… … Wikipedia
Ron Kauk — (born 1958) is an American rock climber and Yosemite Camp 4 regular.Kauk began spending summers in Yosemite in 1974 [Mark Kroese, Fifty Favorite Climbs: The Ultimate North American Tick List , The Mountaineers Books, 2002] . In 1975 he free… … Wikipedia
Ron Kauk — (* 1958) ist ein amerikanischer Kletterer. Er gilt als einer der Väter des modernen Sportkletterns und war Erstbegeher mehrerer schwerer Kletterrouten vor allem im Yosemite Tal in Kalifornien. Leben Ron Kauk begann 1974 im Yosemite mit den… … Deutsch Wikipedia
List of climbers — This list of climbers includes both mountaineers and rock climbers, since many (though not all) climbers engage in both types of activities. The list also includes boulderers and ice climbers.compactTOC NOTOC A * Vitaly Mikhaylovich Abalakov… … Wikipedia
Nekrolog 3. Quartal 2009 — Nekrolog ◄◄ | ◄ | 2005 | 2006 | 2007 | 2008 | 2009 | 2010 | 2011 Nekrolog 2009: 1. Quartal | 2. Quartal | 3. Quartal | 4. Quartal Weitere Ereignisse | Nekrolog (Tiere) | Filmjahr… … Deutsch Wikipedia
History of rock climbing — Although the practice of rock climbing was an important component of Victorian mountaineering in the Alps, it is generally thought that the sport of rock climbing began in the last quarter of the nineteenth century in at least three areas:… … Wikipedia