Mary Brooks Picken


Mary Brooks Picken
Mary Brooks Picken about 1918, from her Secrets of Distinctive Dress

Mary Brooks Picken was an influential American author of numerous books on needlework, sewing, and textile arts. Born in Aug. 6 1886, she founded the Women's Institute of Domestic Arts and Sciences in Scranton, PA. A fashion expert and author, Picken was an authority on dress, fabric, design, and sewing. She taught "Economics of Fashion" at Columbia University and was one of the five founding directors of the Costume Institute. She was the first woman to be named a trustee of the Fashion Institute of Technology.

She was a member of the National Academy of Sciences National Research Council Advisory Committee on Women's Clothing that selected Hattie Carnegie as the designer of the United States Army's women's uniform and provided advice and assistance on all elements of the women's uniform beginning in 1949.[1]

Picken was a founder of the Fashion Group and served as its Chairman of the Board.

She was married to G. Lynn Sumner, president of the advertising firm of G. Lynn Sumner Co. of New York.

Among her ninety-six books on sewing and fashion, Picken is notable for being the first female author of a dictionary in the English language (The Fashion Dictionary, 1957.)

Picken died March 8, 1981, in Williamsport, PA.

Contents

Publications

Cover of one of Picken's books.

1915

  • Corsets And Close-fitting Patterns - No. 4
  • Drafting and plain dressmaking - 3 A-2
  • Fancy aprons and sunbonnets
  • Millinery Stitches, Department of Millinery, Instruction Paper with Examination Questions
  • Skeleton Foundations, Parts 1 & 2, No. 102 A & B, Department of Millinery, Instruction Paper with Examination Questions
  • Solid Foundations, Parts 1 & 2, No. 103 A & B, Department of Millinery, Instruction Paper with Examination Questions
  • Braid Hats, No. 104, Department of Millinery, Instruction Paper with Examination Questions
  • Piece-Goods Hats, No. 105, Department of Millinery, Instruction Paper with Examination Questions
  • Essential Stitches and Seams, Part 1, No. 1 A-3, Department of Sewing, Instruction Paper with Examination Questions
  • Pattern Drafting, No. 2-3, Department of Sewing, Instruction Paper with Examination Questions
  • Tight Linings and Boning, No. 5-2
  • Essential Stitches and Seams, Part 2, No. 1 B

1916

  • Millinery Facings
  • A Glossary of Millinery Terms, Department of Millinery
  • Developing Hats of Braid, Department of Millinery
  • Fancy and Draped Crowns, Department of Millinery, Instruction Paper with Examination Questions
  • Woolen Materials and Tailored Plackets No. 12, Department of Sewing (First Ed); Department of Tailoring, (1922 Ed), Instruction Paper with Examination Questions
  • Harmony of Dress, 11-2, Department of Sewing, Instruction Paper with Examination Questions
  • Fancy aprons and sunbonnets
  • Underwear and lingerie 10 B; Department of Sewing, later published as Plain Undergarments, No. 202
  • Tailored Skirts, Woman's Institute of Domestic Arts & Sciences [2], Instruction Paper with Examination Questions
  • Embroidery Stitches Parts 1 and 2, No. 7-A & 7-B, Department of Sewing, Woman’s Institute of Domestic Arts & Sciences Inc., Instruction Paper with Examination Questions
  • Remodeling and Renovating, No. 17, Department of Dressmaking, Instruction Paper with Examination Questions

1917

  • Maternity and Infants' Garments - No. 19-2
  • Miscellaneous garments 22

1918

1919

  • Millinery Made Easy, 70WI, Department of Millinery, advertising pamphlet for course in millinery, reprinted in 1921, 1922, 1923, & 1924

1920

  • Drafting And Plain Dressmaking - Part 2 - No. 3 B-2
  • Patterns For Children And Misses' Garments - No. 18
  • Pattern Drafting - No. 2-3
  • Tight Linings And Bonings - No. 5-2
  • Laces, Silks, And Linen - No. 6
  • The Dressmaker And Tailor Shop - No. 25-2

1921

  • Underwear And Lingerie
  • Harmony of Dress - No. 11-2
  • Corsets and Close Fitting Patterns
  • Tailored Skirts - No. 13
  • Woman's Institute Fashion Service; Instruction Quarterly included "Smart Designs ... With Detailed Instructions for Making"; Woman's Institute Magazine published monthly at least through Spring of 1930

1922

  • Tailored Pockets, Woman's Institute of Domestic Arts & Sciences

[3]

  • Tight Linings and Boning, Woman's Institute of Domestic Arts & Sciences [4]
  • House Aprons and Caps, No. 405, Woman's Institute of Domestic Arts & Sciences, Instruction Paper with Examination Questions

1923

  • Woolen Materials and Tailored Plackets, Woman's Institute of Domestic Arts & Sciences [5], Instruction Paper with Examination Questions
  • Individualizing Tissue-Paper Patterns, No. 403, Instruction Paper with Examination Questions
  • Tailored Seams and Plackets, No. 414, Instruction Paper with Examination Questions

1925

  • The Mary Brooks Picken Method Of Modern Dressmaking [6]
  • Underwear and Lingerie, Part 1, No 407-A, Instruction Paper with Examination Questions
  • Designing and Planning Clothes, No. 415, Instruction Paper with Examination Questions

1927

  • How to Make Dresses the Modern Singer Way (Singer Sewing Library No. 2) (reissued 1928, 1929, 1930)

1929

  • How to make draperies, slip covers, cushions and other home furnishings the modern Singer way (Singer Sewing Library)

1930

  • Sewing Secrets, Modern Methods of Stitching, Decorating and Finishing, The Spool Cotton Company (reissued 1934)

1931

  • Laundering and Dry Cleaning, Woman's Institute of Domestic Arts & Sciences [7]

1933

  • Principles of Tailoring, Woman's Institute of Domestic Arts & Sciences [8]

1939

  • The language of fashion: Dictionary and digest of fabric, sewing and dress, Mary Brooks Picken school, Incorporated

1955

  • Needlepoint Made Easy

1956

  • Dressmakers of France: The who, how, and why of the French couture, Harper, 1956.

1957

1993

  • Old-Fashioned Ribbon Trimmings and Flowers

ISBN 0-486-27521-3 EAN:978-0486-27521-5 UPC:800759275212

1999

  • A Dictionary of Costume and Fashion: Historic and Modern (unabridged Dover Books republication of The Fashion Dictionary, 1957). ISBN 0-486-40294-0 EAN:978-0486-40294-9 UPC:800759402946

Notes

  1. ^ U.S. Army Quartermaster Museum Archives Technical report 68-41-CM "The Army Green Uniform"
  2. ^ Tailored Skirts, Woman's Institute of Domestic Arts & Sciences pamphlet, as HTML at VintageSewing.info
  3. ^ Tailored Pockets, Woman's Institute of Domestic Arts & Sciences pamphlet, as HTML at VintageSewing.info
  4. ^ Tight Linings and Boning, Woman's Institute of Domestic Arts & Sciences pamphlet, as HTML at VintageSewing.info
  5. ^ Woolen Materials and Tailored Plackets, Woman's Institute of Domestic Arts & Sciences pamphlet, as HTML at VintageSewing.info
  6. ^ The Mary Brooks Picken Method Of Modern Dressmaking, scan at HEARTH, the Home Economics Archive at Cornell University
  7. ^ Laundering and Dry Cleaning, Woman's Institute of Domestic Arts & Sciences pamphlet, as HTML at VintageSewing.info
  8. ^ Principles of Tailoring, Woman's Institute of Domestic Arts & Sciences pamphlet, as HTML at VintageSewing.info

References

  • Picken, Mary Brooks, The Fashion Dictionary, Funk and Wagnalls, 1957, dust jacket biography.
  • Obituary, New York Times, March 11, 1981

Wikimedia Foundation. 2010.

Look at other dictionaries:

  • Corsetmaker — Corsetiers cutting out and fitting in the 18th century A corsetmaker is a specialist tailor who makes corsets. Corsetmakers are frequently known by the French equivalent terms corsetier (male) and corsetière (female). Stay maker is an obsolete… …   Wikipedia

  • Fashion Group — The Fashion Group International is a global, non profit, professionalorganization for the fashion industry founded in 1930.Founding and charter members included Elizabeth Arden, Eleanor Roosevelt, Helena Rubinstein, Lilly Dache, Edith Head, Mary… …   Wikipedia

  • Robert Piguet — Paul Jean Robert Piguet (* 6. Mai 1898 in Yverdon les Bains; † 21. Februar 1953 in Lausanne) war ein Schweizer Modeschöpfer und Parfümeur. Piguet war der jüngste Sohn einer angesehenen Schweizer Bankiersfamilie. Mit 19 Jahren übersiedelte er nach …   Deutsch Wikipedia

  • Pleat — A pleat (older plait) is a type of fold formed by doubling fabric back upon itself and securing it in place. It is commonly used in clothing and upholstery to gather a wide piece of fabric to a narrower circumference. [ Picken, Mary Brooks, The… …   Wikipedia

  • Aiguillette (ornament) — An aiguillette, aguillette or aiglet (from French aiguille needle ) is a decorative tag or tip for a cord or ribbon, [Picken, Mary Brooks: The Fashion Dictionary , p.4] usually of gold and sometimes set with gemstones or enameled. Small cords and …   Wikipedia

  • Glossary of textile manufacturing — For terms specifically related to sewing, see Glossary of sewing terms. For terms specifically related to dyeing, see Glossary of dyeing terms. The manufacture of textiles is one of the oldest of human technologies. To make textiles, the first… …   Wikipedia

  • Pocket — For other uses, see Pocket (disambiguation). Patch pocket with topstitching on the back of a pair of blue jeans. A pocket is a bag or envelope like receptacle either fastened to or inserted in an article of clothing to hold small items. Pockets… …   Wikipedia

  • Duster (clothing) — Old West reenactor wearing a duster A duster is a light, loose fitting long coat. The original dusters were full length, light colored canvas or linen coats worn by horsemen to protect their clothing from trail dust. These dusters were typically… …   Wikipedia

  • Cloak — For other uses, see Cloak (disambiguation). Evening cloak or manteau, from Costume Parisien, 1823 …   Wikipedia

  • Skirt — For the cut of beef, see skirt steak. Polka dot skirt on a hanger. A skirt is a tube or cone shaped garment that hangs from the waist and covers all or part of the legs. In the western world, skirts are usually considered women s clothing.… …   Wikipedia


Share the article and excerpts

Direct link
Do a right-click on the link above
and select “Copy Link”

We are using cookies for the best presentation of our site. Continuing to use this site, you agree with this.